Dar es Salaam is Tanzania's premier city. The 'Haven of Peace' started life as a fishing village in the mid-19th century when the Sultan of Zanzibar got the urge to turn a creek (now a harbour) into a safe port and trading centre. Now it's a teeming metropolis of 1.5 million people where Arab dhows mingle with huge ocean-going vessels. Like most African cities, there are substantial contrasts between the various parts of the city. But while the busy central streets around the colourful Kariakoo Market and clock tower are a world away from the tree-lined boulevards of the government quarters to the north, there's no evidence of slums. The place is warm and salty with a heady cultural mix and none of the underlying aggro of Nairobi.

Dar's National Museum is next to the Botanical Gardens in the city centre. It features important archeological collections, especially the fossil discoveries of Zinjanthropus (Nutcracker Man), and the sordid history of the Zanzibar slave trade. About 10km (6mi) from the city centre, the Village Museum is also worth a look. It's a living breathing village of authentic dwellings from various parts of Tanzania. Traditional dances are performed here on the weekend. Oyster Bay, a beautiful (for now) stretch of tropical coastline, is the city's nearest beach.

Be aware that finding a place to stay in Dar can be difficult. It's not that there's a lack of hotels, it's just that they always seem to be full - this applies to the cheap, expensive and the in-between. So, whatever you do, don't pass up a vacant room because you don't like the curtains. Take the room and look for something better later. The city is Tanzania's major international arrival point for flights and there are plenty of airline offices here. The TAZARA train line runs between Dar es Salaam and Kapiri Mposhi (Zambia). Buses to most parts of the country leave from a variety of places within the city. There's no central bus station.

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• Destination Kenya

Summary|Culture|History
Dar es Salaam|Lake Manyara
Mount Kilimanjaro|Ngorongoro Crater
Serengeti|Tarangire|Zanzibar